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The aspect of the Olmecs most familiar now is their artwork, particularly the aptly named “colossal heads”. The Olmec civilization was first defined through artifacts which collectors purchased on the pre-Columbian art market in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Olmec artworks are considered among ancient America’s most striking.

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In 1869, the Mexican antiquarian trav José Melgar y Serrano published a description of the first Olmec monument to have been found in situ. This monument – the colossal head now labelled Tres Zapotes Monument A– had been discovered in the late 1850s by a farm worker clearing forested land on a hacienda in Veracruz. Hearing about the curious find while travelling through the region, Melgar y Serrano first visited the site in 1862 to see for himself and complete the partially exposed sculpture’s excavation. His description of the object, published several years later after further visits to the site, represents the earliest documented report of an artifact of what is now known as the Olmec culture.

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Infused with individuality, no two heads are alike and the helmet-like headdresses are adorned with distinctive elements, suggesting personal or group symbols. Some have also speculated that Mesoamerican people believed that the soul, along with all of one’s experiences and emotions, was contained inside the head. The state of Guerrero, and in particular its early Mezcala culture, seem to have played an important role in the early history of Olmec culture. Olmec-style artifacts tend to appear earlier in some parts of Guerrero than in the Veracruz-Tabasco area.

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If you are feeling up to an intensive walk, you could actually circle the entire coastline of the old town area in about an hour or so of continuous walking, but I’ve broken it up for this itinerary. While these walking tours are free, you usually tip the guide at the end of the tour however much you want to pay. My group had 8 people including myself, and my Pancho Tour Guide was quite excellent, full of interesting information and stuff about the city you might not know from just looking around, so definitely worth the tip. Typically these tour groups meet at Plaza San Juan de Dios at either 1030am or 1pm , usually in front of the Ayuntamiento or City Hall building, and end at La Caleta Beach on the western end of the peninsula in about 2 hours. What I suggest is doing the walking tour first to learn the history of these places, and then doubling back later if you want to spend more time exploring them further.